Thomas Locke Hobbs
| Currently: Buenos Aires |
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| Vagner w/ Santa Hat in Sao Caetano do Sul |
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| Emerson in Sao Caetano do Sul |
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| Giorgio in Sao Paulo |
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| Galeria Melissa on Rua Oscar Freire |
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| Me & Vagner in front of a building's security box. |
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| MASP and Avenida Paulista on Dec. 31st. The crowds are from the Sao Silvestre foot race.
I've put all these photos and more on a flickr set. |
Labels: brasil
Graffiti & Random Stuff around Sao Paulo
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| Building covered in pichacoes near the Mercado Municpal |
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| I like the orange uniforms the street cleaners wear |
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| A larger than life sculpture of a rubbish collector at the Conjunto Nacional |
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| In Brazil the pharmacies sell Viagra over the counter. That last sentence will mean this post will get a lot of hits from google searches or will be flagged as spam. Probably both. |
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Sidewalks in Sao Paulo
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| Edificio Copan at night
Réveillon na Paulista, Flickr is great for events where I didn't bring my camera. These are pics from Avenida Paulista, where I spent the night of the 31st. As I've been telling people, it's like Times Square but with twice as many people, warm weather and no open container laws. Oh, and after midnight the bands kept on playing until 3am. |
Labels: brasil
Brazil Again
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| I went to São Paulo again over Christmas and New Year's. |
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| This was my fourth Christmas in the Southern Hemisphere so it no longer seems strange to celebrate the holiday in summertime. What is weird, still, is the wholesale adoption of wintertime Christmas imagery. This display on Avenida Paulista at least makes a nod to the Southern Hemisphere [and current cultural zeitgeist] by including penguins. |
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| I didn't have a very ambitious itinerary. Mostly I just wanted to eat my favorite Brazilian foods, like Coxinhas [shredded chicken, stuffed inside mashed potato and deep fried]. |
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| A smoothie with açaí, guarana, ice tea and milk. mmmm... |
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| Oscar Niemeyer's Niteroi Museum (see also 2005.03.31). The museum is often compared to a flying saucer. In fact, astute observers will have already noticed the small craft in the upper right-hand corner coming in for a landing on the mother ship.
I didn't feel like lugging my SLR around Rio's notoriously dangerous streets so this photo and the ones below were taken with a $3 disposable camera. I was actually in Rio a month ago but I just got these developed now. |
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| Thumbs up for Jesus on Corcovado. |
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| The view from Corcovado of Ipanema, Leblon and Lagoa. The statue is buzzed four times a minute by helicopters but just being up there is almost like being on a helicopter ride, so dramatic is the view. |
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| Garoto de Ipanema. This guy and a friend were selling henna tatoos. They asked if they could drop their books next to our seats while they went swimming. I asked only for a photo in return. |
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| Sheltering from the Evil Sun at Praia Lopes Mendes on Ilha Grande. 30 minutes without reapplying my 45 sunblock after a swim and I went from the whitest boy on the beach to the pinkest. |
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| One last photo from Sao Paulo. This is the same view as I posted on 2006.03.30 but on a rainy night with fogged windows from the enclosed, rooftop pool. |
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| Paçoca! I've documented my love of paçoca before (see 2005.05.23). Amor Paçoca's recipe uses mandioca flower in addition to the usual peanuts and sugar, making it more flaky & crumbly. |
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| Phebo Soap is this traditional, glycerin soap that is scented of roses. It was twice as expensive as Brazilian Dove but I knew it'd make a cooler blog post. Apparently I'm not the only one with an obsession for Brazilian consumer products. I found this great set on flickr; Colorful Brazil which includes a photo of, yup, Phebo Soap. |
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| All the ingredients for making capirinhas are extremely cheap in Brazil. Sugar: 40 cents/lb, limes: 25 cents/lb, cachaza: $2/liter. |
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| I coudn't figure out what to photograph in the city, so I took pictures of stuff in my fridge. Today: an old pizza box. |
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| The Galeria do Rock in downtown São Paulo (see also 2005.04.18). The first photo should really be turned vertical. The stairwell photo is a visual cliche (see Paris) but still looks cool with that orange railing. The gallery is filled with t-shirt shops selling rock & hip-hop themed clothing. The upper floors, which get less foot traffic have a lot of custom t-shirt and printing shops. Such is the place´s notoriety that when the Rolling Stones played Copacabana for free, the local newscasts used the gallery as a backdrop for their ´rock fans go crazy´ human interest stories. |
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| This building is on Avenida 9 de Julho near the Centro. It has been totally abandoned and covered with pichações, this blocky graffiti script that is indigenous to Brazil. I´ve blogged this before, see 2005.07.11. I only learned the name for this style of graffiti thanks to Graffiti Brasil, a book I stumbled upon in a museum bookstore. I quite like the building itself with its 1940s deco stylings. If São Paulo ever experienced a wave of gentrification I could easily see this building converted back into the luxury apartments it once was. For now this area is a no man´s land at night and not terribly safe by day. It´s also just down the street from my apartment, São Paulo, like New York, being a city of abrupt neighborhood transitions between good and not-so-good. |
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| Rua da Graffiti in Pinheiros/Vila Madalena (see also 2005.09.15). Six months after my last visit there are a lot of new murals up. |
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| Graffiti Paulistano: The first picture is a stairway leading up from Cardeal Arcoverde, an avenue in Jardins America. The second is a graffiti mural on Rua Agusta near the centro. |
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| Back in São Paulo I took advantage of a clear day to go to the observation deck of the Banespa Building. I can never get enough of the endless, highrise sprawl of the city. If you like this view, I have a whole other page of pictures from my trip up there last August. |
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| Oscar Niemeyer´s Church of Saint Fracis of Assisi in Belo Horizonte. It´s quite different from the church of the same name in the post below. The church is one of Niemeyer´s early works, dating from 1942. The church is part of a suburban park development called Pampulha that was spear-headed by then mayor Juscelino Kubitschek. JK, as he´s called here, went on to be elected president and was the driving force behind building the new capital at Brasilia. Niemeyer designed many of the major buildings in Brasilia (my 2001 Brasilia photos). |
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| Ouro Preto, an historical town in Minas Gerais. The area was the site of a gold rush in the 18th century, which lead to the construction of a lot of baroque churches. I visited the town in 2001 and more pictures are on my old Geocities page. |
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| Praça Tiradentes, the main square in town |
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| São Francisco de Assis Church, the most ornate and photographed |
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Eduardo, my roommate
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| I share a house in Pinheiros with Eduardo, a friend of a friend of a friend. He teaches piano and voice. |
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Campos de Jordão
| Campos de Jordão is this town in the mountains northeast of São Paulo. It's at 5000 ft. and rich Paulistas go there in the winter to show off the heavy coats they would never get a chance to wear back in the city. The town is done up in a Swiss village style. |
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Back to Buildings
| Downtown São Paulo is not all seedy, decrepit, abandoned buildings. Some of the best architecture in the city is found there: |
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The Week - Lasers & Go-Go Boys
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| The Week is São Paulo´s largest gay club. It´s hard to take pictures inside a club that capture the experience. I hope these photos give a sense of the steroidal decadence of the disco. |
Labels: brasil
Tatoos
| Tatoos are very popular. Here are a few more extreme examples seen at the parade and related clubbing events: |
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| I can´t look at this last tatoo without thinking of the Fountains of Wayne song. |
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More São Paulo Gay Pride Pics
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| The images are from the end of Paulista where it meets Consolação and an underpass connects to Rebouças. Since the parade lasted nearly 12 hours, I went home, showered, changed and returned. This is becoming a very gay week on my blog. I have a couple more clubbing-related posts coming up. Update Feb. 2006:According to blogger Made in Brazil the 2006 parade will be on June 17. |
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Sao Paulo´s Gay Pride Parade
| Yesterday´s Gay Pride Parade in São Paulo attracted 1.8 million people according to the police. Things got started at 1pm and lasted til well past 10pm. Parade is a misnomer. Massive, wild street party would be a better description. Trio Electricos, 18-wheeler trucks outfitted with massive sound systems, pumped out techno music and inched their way 40 blocks along Ave. Paulista and to downtown while revelers danced and followed in their trail. There were lots of straights just to enjoy the party and spectacle. The cheap booze, lack of open container laws, and light police presence made the party wild and a little out of control. New York and San Francisco´s parades seem small and staid in comparison. |
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And of course there were lots of drag queens:
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Capitalism at work:
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| Dancing on the Trio Electrico. Made in Brazil has lots more photos in daytime and nighttime. Folha de São Paulo has an overview article, in Portuguese. Finally, here are my 2004 NYC Gay Pride pictures. |
Labels: brasil
Gay Pride in São Paulo
| São Paulo´s gay pride parade is on Sunday with 2 million (!) people expected. Half a million tourists, mostly from elsewhere in Brazil have descended upon the city for a weekend of of non-stop partying. Even Cariocas, notorious for their dislike of SP have been showing up. It seems the whole of New York´s DJ scene has also decamped down here for the week. Last night Alex Lauterstein played Ultralounge. Tonight 30,000 (!) are expected for the e.joy party headlined by Deborah Cox with a DJ set by Tony Moran to follow. Also tonight Peter Rauhofer is playing The Week, São Paulo´s biggest gay club. Saturday night Junior Vasquez will DJ a party at Hotel Unique. The blogger Made In Brazil has very good coverage of the events. Of course gay pride means fabulous drag queen pictures: |
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| I shot these photos at yesterday´s street festival on Largo do Arouche in downtown São Paulo. The distant figure on the stage is a drag queen doing Tina Turner. |
Labels: brasil
FAU Building
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| Saturday I went with my roommate Eduardo to this old mansion built by the coffee baron family Penteado in Higienopolis. It´s now owned by the architectural faculty of the University of São Paulo. The place is a great example of Art Nouveau decoration. We were there for a dress rehearsal of a recital Eduardo was to give the next day. More info on the mansion in Portuguese. |
Labels: brasil
Paulista Skyline
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| My square picture format doesn´t really lend itself to capturing São Paulo´s skyline. I´m waiting for a clear afternoon to ascend the Banespa building downtown and take some higher resolution pictures. |
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Me & Emerson
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| I don´t think I´ve posted a picture yet of Emerson. He´s friends with Jean Denis and was my first contact here in São Paulo. We hang out a lot. On sunday we made the rounds doing social calls, visiting no less than four restaurants. Em´s a popular guy. |
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Uma Cerveja Bem Gelada
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| Beer is typically served just below 0 degrees celsius in 600ml bottles. Because of the alcohol it doesn´t freeze. |
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| The bottles are in coolers which prominently display just how many degrees below zero (celsius) they are stored. |
Labels: brasil
Praça Cheese
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| Around the corner form my house in Pinheiros is this quiet Lanchonette called Praça Cheese. I often get lunch there or hang out there in the evening with my roommate Eduardo drinking bottle after bottle of cheap, nearly frozen beer. |
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Robocop
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Edificio Cadaver
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| Nearby on the Marginal Pinheiros is this abandoned construction. I´ve always been fascinated by these skeletal buildings. They´re like pure architecture, or some sort of grand sculpture. I´ll be photographing more of this building (and others here in São Paulo) |
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9 de Julho
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| 9 de Julho is one of the avenues leading out from downtown along the bottom of a valley. Streets cross along viaducts and tall buildings front the avenue and the streets rising on either side. The neighborhood on the right is a good one but on the street itself it has become very seedy with a number of buildings being abandoned, covered in graffiti and filled with squatters. Visually I love it but I wouldn´t want to walk there at night or live in the building next door. |
Labels: brasil
Memorial da America Latina
| You don´t have to go to Brasilia to experience Oscar Niemeyer´s wacky architecture. Right near the center of São Paulo is his Memorial da America Latina. It was opened in 1989, despite it´s rather 60´s Jetson´s look. Niemeyer has never really altered his style. The centerpiece of the memorial is a vast, shade-less, sunbaked, concrete plaza--perhaps not the best feature in a tropical city. The project strikes me as one of those self-congratulatory public projects that don´t do very much good. The quote at the bottom of the bleeding hand is from the then-governor of São Paulo state. The site is located next to one of the major transit points in São Paulo; Barra Funda, where the train, subway and multiple bus lines converge. A shopping mall would´ve been a better contribution to the urban fabric. Instead Paulistas have a vast, fenced-in, ceremonial dead-zone in the heart of the city. I suppose the models at least looked cool. |
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| The Official website. Neimeyer´s website, showing a number of his later projects. |
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SESC Pompeia
| One of the most interesting buildings in São Paulo is the SESC Pompeia, designed by the architect Lina Bo Bardi in the early 1980s. SESC is this quasi-union organization and has these recreation & cultural centers scattered across São Paulo. They clearly have a lot of money because the buildings are immaculate and interesting.The center in the neighborhood of Pompei is a recycled factory, altho the two concrete stuctures with the walkways were built new for the center. |
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| More info & pictures in Portuguese. |
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| New buildings don´t quite look real, as if they are really just blown-up maquetes, toy versions of themselves. |
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Parque Ibirapuera
| Before Oscar Niemeyer did Brasilia, he designed Parque Ibirapuera in São Paulo. It´s a well laid out park near the heart of the city, sort of it´s central park. Niemeyer´s buildings show is typical curvaceous tendencies. |
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Oca
| His most famous building in the park is OCA, which it this dome structure, like some sphere rising out of the ground. On the day I went children were gleefully running up the side and sliding off, surely not something the architect intended. A security guard perfunctorily told the children to stop but they started up again as soon as he left. |
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Labels: brasil
Post Modernism without the Irony
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| A lot of new apartment towers in São Paulo have this neo-classical detailing. I don´t think the residents who move in have ever heard the name Philip Johnson. I suspect, instead, that they just think it looks cute. |
Crackolandia
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| Here´s a tall and spectacularly run-down building in the heart of Luz, once the belle epoque center of Paulista high society. That was 100 years ago. Now the area is known by the less flattering name, "Crackolandia". I was there to visit the old train station and art museum but I ended up taking pictures of run-down buildings. |
Prato Feito
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| Most days I eat what´s called a prato feito [literally "made dish"] of chicken, rice and beans for $1.50. |
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| In the afternoon I usually have a smoothie made with açaí, a type of dark, tropical berry. The resulting mix looks like crude oil but tastes delicious. |
Labels: brasil
Me & Jean Denis
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| These photos are a little out of sequence but I haven´t had time to post everything. These two are from two weeks ago when Jean Denis was here for a visit. We went out a lot and by Saturday we were exhausted. |
Me & Marcos
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| When Marcos came to visit, the following week, he brought two excellent bottles of wine from Argentina (wines here in Brazil imported from Argentina are 3x the price). The celebrate his last night we had a picada which my Brazlian friends thought was very chique (that´s Brazilian for "chic"). |
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My Havaianas
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| I picked up a pair of the ubiquitous Brazlian flip-flops at the beach for about $4.50. These may still be trendy. I´m not sure. They are, however, very soft & comfortable and I wear them around the house. |
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Tanned Thomas
| The result of all this sun has been my first tan in 8 years: |
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Here, for comparison, is how I looked in December:
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Parati, Pt. 3
| On our last day in Parati, Marcos and I went to Trinidade, this small hippie beach community fronting three of the most perfect, tropical beaches I have ever seen. I´m rethinking my long-standing aversion to sand & sun. |
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Parati Pt. 2
| There´s no beach in Parati, so a popular tour is to go out in a schooner around the bay to various secluded beaches with emerald waters. |
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Parati, pt. 1
| Parati, in the state of Rio, was used as the port to bring gold from Minas Gerais to the crown in Lisbon. Since about 1800 not much has happened here and so there´s a really charming colonial center that is very well preserved. Marcos was visiting from Buenos Aires and wanted to see the coast. I don´t have any commitments so we took off together for three days last week. |
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Messy Façade
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| This building in downtown São Paulo is really out of control. I feel strange posting these photos because I´m currently in the colonial paradise of Parati with my Argentine friend Marcos. None of the netcafes here will let me plug in my flash drive to upload new pictures. Not to worry, I´m returning to São Paulo tomorrow and I will post pictures of beaches that have made me reconsider my long-standing hatred of the sun. |
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Galeria Rock
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| Downtown São Paulo has this shopping gallery that is filled with rock t-shirts, tatoos, piercings and other paraphanelia for the rock "tribes" of Brazil. If you are looking for that Judas Priest t-Shirt this is the place to go. |
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Water Filter
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| I drink the tap water here in São Paulo. Most of my friends don´t. I figure it´s safe because I can taste the chlorine. |
Nescau!
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| People really seem to love their powdered drink mixes here. |
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| Just a random space between buildings. Luc has finally published some hot photos of his straight roommate Romain. |
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Electric Shower
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| In most of Brazil, it being a tropical country, there´s no hot water tank. Most showers have this electric water heater shower head that heats up the water as it comes out of the pipe. The slower the flow, the hotter the water. Since I like hot showers, even in a hot climate, I usually find myself standing under a dribble, albeit a hot dribble. |
Real Estate Ads
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| Real estate ads. There´s lots of new construction around São Paulo. More 20 story apartment buildings to extend out to the horizon and fill in all the gaps in between. |
Cellphones
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| Our cellphones on Sunday. I bought a used Nokia, unlocked, GSM tri-band phone on ebay for about $50 before I left the US. I use pre-paid cards. If someone calls me it´s free for me, altho ruinously expensive for them. If I call, it´s ruinously expensive for me; about $.30/min for a mobil-to-mobil call. I´ve discovered that text messages are very cheap. I sit on the bus, in traffic [São Paulo´s subway is a joke that doesn´t go awaywhere, at least not to my neighborhood], and slowly peck away. |
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Jean Denis in Brazil
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| Jean Denis is visiting São Paulo this week on business. This past weekend we went out and spent our days taking pictures and eating croissants. I first met Jean Denis in 1999 when we were both living in Buenos Aires. Here´s a picture of JD from back then. |
Brice
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| Brice is a French Expat here in São Paulo who, like everyone it seems, I first met thru Jean Denis. |
Brice & Milton
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| I stayed with Milton and his boyfriend Emerson when I first arrived in São Paulo in the middle of March. |
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Telenovelas
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| I´ve been trying to get into the current big Telenovela on Globo, America. It´s about Brazilians emigrating to the US (and a lot of other typical soap opera drama). Of course, I have a hard enough time following soap operas in English so for the moment it´s close to hopeless not knowing any of the characters, their connections or the backstory. Made in Brazil, my source for all the fabulous events in São Paulo has a couple of posts on the [male] cast of the telenovela [one, two] |
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Downtown São Paulo
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| Downtown São Paulo has been on the decline since the 60s. Today it´s seedy with lots of discount stores and street vendors. At night it´s a dangerous place. Dividing the two halves of downtown is this narrow valley in which there´s a park. Running under the park is a freeway. Streets connecting the two halves cross the park as viaducts. It´s an odd sensation. The streets are basically flat but occasionally you get these vistas of multi-level chaos. It adds to the whole science fiction, Blade Runner feel of the city. Update: I should add this area is called the Valley of Anhangabau. My friend Aaron sent me a link to some old photos of what this area looked like in the 1930s. |
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One Last Shot from Rio
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| I didn´t spend all of my time looking at buildings. This is from the gay section of the beach on Ipanema. I didn´t take this picture. Credit for that goes to Ben. |
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More Rio Buildings
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| Since this is the tropics, lots of buildings have interesting sun louvres. |
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| Older buildings don´t have central air. The result is a very uneven façade as some tennants put in AC and other´s don´t (I´d hate to be in those offices) |
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| I think because I spent three years living in Mather House I have a soft spot for Brutalist Architecture. This is the Museu de Arte Contemporaneo. |
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| Parque Flamengo on a rainy and deserted Good Friday. |
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Petrobras & Catedral Metropolitana
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| Two loveably hideous buildings in downtown Rio: the Petrobras headquarters (the rubik´s cube) and the Catedral Metropolitana, which looks like some Vegas Strip volcano from the outside, altho on the inside it´s cool and breezy and the stained glass is beautiful. |
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Niteroi
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| Across the bay from Rio is the city of Niteroi where there is the Contemporary Art Museum designed by Oscar Niemeyer. It looks like something out of the Jetsons but it was actually completed in 1996. Essentially the building is a cone segment inscribed by a angle determined by the slope of the Sugar Loaf across the bay. There isn´t much of a collection. The main exhibit when I went was a selection of Niemeyer´s drawing & poems. The words self indulgent come to mind. |
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Hang-gliding in Rio
| Before I bore you to death with modernist architecture, here are some photos of the day I went hang-gliding: |
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| This is the ramp we were launched off of. It´s above Barra de Tijuca. The mountains on the left are the Dois Irmãos above Ipanema. I was hooked in with my pilot. The instructions were pretty simple: don´t stop running and don´t touch anything. The overall message was basically: don´t fuck up. |
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| Ben and I in our gear. I´m not sure how useful the helmet is (altho I guess it would be useful in landing). |
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| This is my glider being positioned for take-off. There were six of us and we took off like rush hour planes at La Guardia. The experience was incomperable. Truly it was like flying (actually, I guess is was flying). I didn´t take any pictures on the way down because, really, how could I capture such an experience. |
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Helipads
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| Continuing with São Paulo clichés, here are a couple of photos of helipads. Many buildings have these on their roof. They´re so executives can scoot around town from meeting to meeting without mingling with the horrendous traffic. I haven´t actually been seeing all that many helicopters flying about. I wonder if having a helipad is not some sort of expensive signaling mechanism for real estate developers to attract more expensive tenants, sort of like putting viking stoves in new condos. I´ve actually been in Rio all this past week (tough life, I know). Soon I´ll be posting more boring building & architecture photos from that beautiful city. |
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Avenida Paulista
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| Avenida Paulista is São Paulo´s new(ish) downtown. In the 1970s businesses moved out of downtown and built along Paulista (now there are other newer centers further now, eg. Faria Lima). The avenue follows a ridge so, while it is flat, streets descend sharply on either side. Look down a street and you´ll find yourself staring at the top of a 20 story building. Because it´s one of the highest points in São Paulo, the buildings are topped with scary looking TV antennas adding to the overall Bladerunner feel of the city. |
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Minha Coxinha
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| Salgados = cheap, salty, snacky foods. I really like Coxinhas which are a fried potato mush with shredded chicken in the center. One of these will cost between U$D.30-.60 |
Guaraná
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| I first tried Guarana, the national soft-drink, when I was 17 on a Varig flight down to Buenos Aires stopping over in São Paulo. The flight was full of Brazilian foreign exchange students returning from 9 fattening months in the United States. They were all crazy home sick and wouldn´t stop ordering guarana, a soft drink that´s somewhere between Red Bull, ginger ale & apple juice (Naturally, I drink the diet version). |
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Bandeira do São Paulo
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| Paulistas seem to be very proud of their city & state. I see the São Paulo flag almost as much as the Brazilian flag. I like the harsh black & white stripes. I´ll have to find some t-shirt with it. |
Vista da Casa
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| Here´s the view from the apartment I stayed at my first few days in São Paulo. You wouldn´t know it from the view but the area is called Jardins (gardens) |
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 | Hi. I'm a 32 year-old American currently living in Buenos Aires. Before that I lived in California, Sao Paulo and New York and if you browse through the archives below you can see photos of all those places. I also have an old geocities page with some outdated information but also more photos of Buenos Aires, friends and my 9/11 pictures. |